Away From the Crowds

Diving off the Samana peninsula's north coast is like no other diving in the Dominican Republic. Sheer rocky cliffs plunge into the Atlantic Ocean, forming vertical walls that drop away into the inky blue. Stony offshore pinnacles, including The Tower, rise up from the deep like church spires, almost touching the surface. Underwater visibility frequently exceeds 150 feet, and big fish still inhabit the depths. And during the migration season, divers can hear the eerie sounds and songs of humpback whales passing close to shore.This pristine area and its excellent diving would be unknown and still virtually inaccessible to divers if it were not for a small seaside hotel called El Portillo Beach Resort that is located there. Beachside BlissTucked away under the shady palms of a former coconut plantation, El Portillo seems reminiscent of a South Seas island resort. Offshore is a barrier reef that serves as a natural fence for a quiet lagoon and shallow coral reef - an ideal spot for snorkeling. On shore, towering palms lean over a white-sand beach and provide protective shade for lounging guests. Just in from the beach, under yet more palms, are intimate guest bungalows. Farther back, traditional hotel rooms unobtrusively occupy three-story buildings set among exotic gardens. The entire resort is marvelously blended with the natural beauty of this tropical valley. Samana ScubaSamana Scuba, conveniently located on the beach, is the on-site PADI dive shop offering a wide range of certification courses for both beginners and experienced divers. The five scuba instructors on staff are fluent in several languages and cater to an international mix of divers. The resort has two 26-foot dive boats and a third craft for smaller groups. Sightseeing UnderwaterSamana Scuba visits 18 charted dive sites, and more are being discovered all the time. Of the known sites, 12 are shallow coral reef and cavern systems with depths to 60 feet. The remaining six are deep sites that reach to 130 feet. The diving includes vertical walls, offshore ocean pinnacles, drift dives, coral caverns and caves, deep coral ledges and shallow spur and groove reef systems.The Tower is regarded as the area's best dive. This ocean pinnacle lies directly off Cabo Cabron, the northernmost tip of the peninsula. It rises up from 165 feet to within 15 feet of the surface. The vertical sides of the pinnacle are etched with vertical ridges populated with gorgonian fans, brightly colored sponges and encrusting corals. Tucked into the crevices are spider crabs and lobsters. Schools of pelagic fish swirl about this stone beacon while reef fish find refuge among its craggy folds.Punta Tibisi is a cliff face of a rocky bluff that continues into the sea. Below the surface three distinct terraces, which were once ancient beaches, form a cascading profile that levels out at 130 feet. It is covered with a thicket of sea fans, gorgonians, sponges and hard corals. It is a favorite haunt for barracudas and sea turtles.Cuevas (Spanish for caverns) is a flat coral reef surrounded by sand patches and honeycombed with limestone caverns, caves and tunnels. The top of the reef is covered with low-profile sea fans and soft corals, and schools of blue striped grunt hug the coral terrain. Beneath the reef, the caverns are encrusted with corals and sponges and are home to blackbar soldierfish and schools of glassy sweepers. This portion of coastline is distinctly different from the rest of the Dominican Republic in that it is one of the few places with vertical walls, offshore pinnacles and extreme visibility. It is the ideal resort for both the experienced diver and the novice who seeks to improve his or her skills. El Portillo Beach ResortPhone: 800-550-1869 Outside U.S.: 954-462-3400E-mail: info@nealwatson.comWeb: www.nealwatson.com