The Wild West - Out East

Grand Cayman

Unconquered wide-open spaces call to mind the American West, but in Grand Cayman, divers looking for an unbridled gallop down sheer walls head east. To the East End, to be precise — lured by the tall tales told by vertical cowboys. Stories of dives that drop into oblivion, with formations of mammoth caverns, mysterious overhangs and towering pillars of coral 60 feet wide that rise from the deep to the top of the Cayman Wall are whispered, as though they may be only legends.

How does such a thrillingly empty space remain in a place like Grand Cayman, an island that seemingly exists solely for the pleasure of divers? The answer is simple: Most divers are so dang happy with the riches of the west and north — the diversity of sites, abundance of marine life, bathtub-warm water and viz averaging over 100 feet — that they never need to look further. The East End remains the Wild West because no one needs to go there — and that's exactly why you should. Now.

The trick is to stay there. Secluded resorts like diver-dedicated Compass Point and the Reef Club are both serviced by PADI Gold Palm IDC Ocean Frontiers, an operation known for exploring the East End's spectacular drop-offs and walls. From the moment you begin planning your trip, names like the Maze and Jack McKenney's Canyon will creep into your consciousness.

The Maze is a series of tunnels and chutes with walls that are thick, steep and craggy — think flying in a helicopter through narrow passages between tall buildings. Crevasses are packed with sponges, and feathery gorgonians create a mysterious gray forest. When you've spilled out into the blue, watch for a resident giant green sea turtle and any other passing pelagics. 

Jack McKenney's Canyon, a site named for the late filmmaker (who was recently inducted into the Diving Hall of Fame), starts at 80 feet and goes deeper. Vertical canyons lead to the deepest drop-off in the Northern Hemisphere: 25,000 feet! Reef sharks regularly pass overhead around 4 p.m. on their way to who-knows-where. With one eye on your depth gauge, keep the other scanning the water for the occasional hammerhead or spotted eagle ray.

There are 55 named sites on the East End, and new ones are constantly being explored. Much like the American West way back when, the East End's map is constantly being redrawn.