| |Four Seasons Explorer|

Four Seasons Explorer
Total passengers: 22 // Cabins: 11 // Total crew: 25 // Length: 129 feet // Number of decks: 3
http://www.fourseasons.com/maldivesfse/

“I heard we don’t even need to give you a tank,” says Angela Gitaprakasa, manager of the dive center at the Four Seasons Landaa Giraavaru, when I arrive to check in. She’s already talked to the week’s divemasters about my air consumption, and while the compliment is incredibly kind, I’m not one bit surprised they’ve been discussing my personal preferences and dive habits — at these sublime resorts, it’s all about personal attention to every single guest.

I’m on day six of a weeklong trip to the Maldives, a country of 1,192 islands — only 200 of them inhabited — strung like sparkling white Christmas lights across the expanse of the Indian Ocean. I’ve just arrived at Landaa Giraavaru, my third of three destinations this week: the first was the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, then Four Seasons Explorer, and finally I’m here at Landaa. My villa here is the most spectacular yet — the private pavilion with an upstairs hammock with a sunset view is calling my name — and the staff already knows of my allergy to goose down, which has been re- moved from my bed before I even check in.

My trip begins at Kuda Huraa, where, after checking into my villa — complete with private plunge pool — I’m anxious for my first foray into Maldivian waters, which will be at a current-heavy site called the Aquarium. We giant-stride into a sea filled with turtles, rays and reef sharks, which are markedly better than I am at holding their place in the swiftly moving water. Once we give in to the current, we float along amiably together. My two days here pass in a blur of dives, private surfing lessons, a massage and beach-front canapés at sunset — in my mind, I’m daring Four Seasons Explorer to top this.

Dare accepted: To call Explorer a dive boat is to do it a grave injustice. My stateroom has a bathtub bigger than the one in my house. It’s a floating yacht, and the perfect mode of transportation to our final stop — many Four Seasons’ guests put together similar itineraries, beginning at Kuda Huraa, spending three days on Explorer, and finishing their trip at Landaa. We dive three times a day from a dhoni; my favorites are a day and night dive at Embodhoo caves: a wall site where we see batfish, tangs, cleaner shrimp, nudis and tons of clownfish, ever on guard if we venture too close to their anemones. The star of our night dive is a lone undulating sea krait, the first I’ve ever seen. The next day we dive Muthafushi — my first thila, or pinnacle — where we drop down to around 90 feet, and circle our way up past schooling jacks, turtles, batfish and tons of tangs.

Our days on the Explorer end with a beach picnic on a private island (of course), where the crew has dug a long table and benches for us ... out of the beach. We sit upon draped sarongs while they bring course after course. My main dish is a perfectly prepared asparagus risotto. On a deserted island. In the Maldives. It’s better than most I’ve had at Italian restaurants back home, and I say so when asked how I like it. “We just want you to be happy,” says cruise director Areef Ali Usman. Mission accomplished.

Ready to dive? Visit: fourseasons.com

Not sure what to pack on a liveaboard? Check out these Essential Items for Liveaboard Diving.