Docked on a liveaboard about 60 miles south of Jucaro, Cuba, one diver ditches 5G for a distraction-free week among the mangrove islands that comprise the Jardines de la Reina.
A seasoned diver finds whale sharks, cleaning stations and creatures of the night aboard the *Scubaspa*—part hardcore diver nirvana, part spa splurge immersion.
When I first started scuba diving, I was as interested in how many dives I had as much as I was exploring and learning about the amazing underwater environment.